Penns Neck
Entrance to the Schenck-Kovenhoven cemetery
Overview
The lands included in what are now West Windsor's boundaries were once primarily owned by Thomas Warne, William Penn, and the Lyell Family, until the mid-1700s (the latter two figures being remembered by the naming of Penn Lyle Road).¹ On November 28, 1737, Garret Schenck and John Kovenhoven jointly purchased a tract of 6,500 acres from three sons of William Penn - John, Thomas, and Richard.² Having left Monmouth County, they blazed a trail through virgin forest and acquired this property for 2,173 pounds sterling.³ Penn, who died in 1718, had originally acquired the tract - demarcated by Stony Brook and Thomas Warne's land to the west, the "Penn-Lyle" tract to the east, the Millstone River to the north, and the Assunpink Creek to the south - in 1693.⁴
After Schenck's and Kovenhoven's purchase, and their division of the tract with the intent to bequeath it to their descendents, settlers gradually began to arrive in the area.⁵ It soon took on the names "Williamsborough" in honor of its eponymous first English landholder.⁶ The vicinity is now known as Penns Neck ("neck" being derived from an old Dutch term for a tract of land).
Along a road traversing the tract (what is roughly today's Brunswick Pike), the Schencks and Kovenhovens (or "Covenhovens," later anglicized to "Conovers"), both Dutch families, established their farms in a checkerboard-like pattern.⁷ Soon after came the Jewells, then the Van Dorns (Descended from Pieter Van Dorn of Doorn, Holland), the Berriens, the Hendricksons, the Mathers, and the Vreelands.⁸ Until the 1920s this area was predominately a farming community in which farmers reaped wheat, corn, and rye.⁹ Orchards also provided succulent apples, peaches, and cherries.¹⁰
In 1748, the Finnish naturalist Peter Kalm remarked after travelling through Penns Neck on his way from Trenton to Princeton: "Near almost every farmhouse has a specious orchard full of peaches and apple trees in such quantities to cover nearly the whole surface. Part of the fruit they left to rot, since they could not take it all in to consume it. Wherever we passed by we were always welcome to go into the fine orchards and gather our pockets full of the choicest fruit without the professor so much as looking after it. Cherry trees were planted near the farm on the roads."¹¹
The lands included in what are now West Windsor's boundaries were once primarily owned by Thomas Warne, William Penn, and the Lyell Family, until the mid-1700s (the latter two figures being remembered by the naming of Penn Lyle Road).¹ On November 28, 1737, Garret Schenck and John Kovenhoven jointly purchased a tract of 6,500 acres from three sons of William Penn - John, Thomas, and Richard.² Having left Monmouth County, they blazed a trail through virgin forest and acquired this property for 2,173 pounds sterling.³ Penn, who died in 1718, had originally acquired the tract - demarcated by Stony Brook and Thomas Warne's land to the west, the "Penn-Lyle" tract to the east, the Millstone River to the north, and the Assunpink Creek to the south - in 1693.⁴
After Schenck's and Kovenhoven's purchase, and their division of the tract with the intent to bequeath it to their descendents, settlers gradually began to arrive in the area.⁵ It soon took on the names "Williamsborough" in honor of its eponymous first English landholder.⁶ The vicinity is now known as Penns Neck ("neck" being derived from an old Dutch term for a tract of land).
Along a road traversing the tract (what is roughly today's Brunswick Pike), the Schencks and Kovenhovens (or "Covenhovens," later anglicized to "Conovers"), both Dutch families, established their farms in a checkerboard-like pattern.⁷ Soon after came the Jewells, then the Van Dorns (Descended from Pieter Van Dorn of Doorn, Holland), the Berriens, the Hendricksons, the Mathers, and the Vreelands.⁸ Until the 1920s this area was predominately a farming community in which farmers reaped wheat, corn, and rye.⁹ Orchards also provided succulent apples, peaches, and cherries.¹⁰
In 1748, the Finnish naturalist Peter Kalm remarked after travelling through Penns Neck on his way from Trenton to Princeton: "Near almost every farmhouse has a specious orchard full of peaches and apple trees in such quantities to cover nearly the whole surface. Part of the fruit they left to rot, since they could not take it all in to consume it. Wherever we passed by we were always welcome to go into the fine orchards and gather our pockets full of the choicest fruit without the professor so much as looking after it. Cherry trees were planted near the farm on the roads."¹¹
Close-up of 1875 Everts & Stuart map
Garret Schenck, apparently, never lived on his Penns Neck Property.¹² He died in Pleasant Valley, Monmouth County, on September 5, 1745, leaving behind 986 acres of Penns Neck to his five daughters.¹³
Soon after Brunswick Pike's construction in 1807, a small village began to appear around the intersection of the Pike and Washington Road.¹⁴ The Red Lion Inn - now the parsonage for the adjacent church - was constructed by William Conover in 1807.¹⁵ Five years later, the Princeton Baptist Church appeared, prompted by the need for a formal house of worship (local residents had previously been meeting in private homes).¹⁶ This building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.¹⁷ The church dominated town life from its inception, serving as both the focal point of worship and a social gathering place.¹⁸ Renovations and expansions over the years have significantly altered the church's original architecture, but it still retains much of its historic integrity.¹⁹
Soon after Brunswick Pike's construction in 1807, a small village began to appear around the intersection of the Pike and Washington Road.¹⁴ The Red Lion Inn - now the parsonage for the adjacent church - was constructed by William Conover in 1807.¹⁵ Five years later, the Princeton Baptist Church appeared, prompted by the need for a formal house of worship (local residents had previously been meeting in private homes).¹⁶ This building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.¹⁷ The church dominated town life from its inception, serving as both the focal point of worship and a social gathering place.¹⁸ Renovations and expansions over the years have significantly altered the church's original architecture, but it still retains much of its historic integrity.¹⁹
Princeton Baptist Church, 1939. Note the old dramatic steeple!
By the early 1800s, Penns Neck had blossomed into a town catering to stagecoach travelers.²⁰ A general store, blacksmith, wheelwright shop, harness shop, wagon repairer's shop and a dozen residences clustered around the intersection.²¹ There were also two competing inns - the Red Lion Inn, and a separate building across the road which was torn down around 1850.²² Both competed for the business of stagecoaches running between Trenton and New Brunswick.²³ It was not uncommon to witness horse races on a nearby farm, sponsored by Asher Temple - an erstwhile owner of the Red Lion Inn in the mid-1800s.²⁴ Political rallies were also often hosted in the building.²⁵ Elections, public meetings, auctions, and sales of real estate were frequent events in the edifice, and gossip was always within earshot.²⁶
Penns Neck was also the site of West Windsor's earliest school.²⁷ Although the original building, constructed around 1760, is long gone, a third iteration of the schoolhouse sits at 3637 Brunswick Pike.²⁸ Additionally, until the mid-1990s, a larger institution called the Penns Neck School stood at the northwest corner of the intersection of Brunswick Pike and Alexander Road.²⁹ An identical twin to the elementary school in Dutch Neck, this edifice represented a transformation in the township's approach to education.³⁰
The construction of the Delaware and Raritan Canal in the 1830s, and its completion in 1834, must have caused considerable excitement among Penns Neck's populace.³¹ Residents probably marveled at this waterway's excavation, yet another avenue by which commerce would bring life to the area. Simultaneously, thirsty canal workers likely wandered up the hill into town to enjoy a drink at Penns Neck's inns.
Several Penns Neck farmers had a direct interest in the canal. In 1836, John S. VanDyke, erstwhile clerk of West Windsor, sold nearly an acre of his land to the canal, receiving $105 in return.³² William Kovenhoven must have been a better negotiator, for he was compensated $100 for one twentieth of an acre a year earlier! Both purchases occurred after the canal's opening because legal matters related to small transfers of land were deferred until after its completion. ³³
Penns Neck was also the site of West Windsor's earliest school.²⁷ Although the original building, constructed around 1760, is long gone, a third iteration of the schoolhouse sits at 3637 Brunswick Pike.²⁸ Additionally, until the mid-1990s, a larger institution called the Penns Neck School stood at the northwest corner of the intersection of Brunswick Pike and Alexander Road.²⁹ An identical twin to the elementary school in Dutch Neck, this edifice represented a transformation in the township's approach to education.³⁰
The construction of the Delaware and Raritan Canal in the 1830s, and its completion in 1834, must have caused considerable excitement among Penns Neck's populace.³¹ Residents probably marveled at this waterway's excavation, yet another avenue by which commerce would bring life to the area. Simultaneously, thirsty canal workers likely wandered up the hill into town to enjoy a drink at Penns Neck's inns.
Several Penns Neck farmers had a direct interest in the canal. In 1836, John S. VanDyke, erstwhile clerk of West Windsor, sold nearly an acre of his land to the canal, receiving $105 in return.³² William Kovenhoven must have been a better negotiator, for he was compensated $100 for one twentieth of an acre a year earlier! Both purchases occurred after the canal's opening because legal matters related to small transfers of land were deferred until after its completion. ³³
Delaware and Raritan Canal
When the Camden & Amboy Railroad was established in 1839, rail traffic brought further prosperity for the area's farmers.³⁴ Its relocation in 1863 and the subsequent construction of the Dinkey line into Princeton necessitated the construction of a station in Penns Neck at the intersection of the railroad and Brunswick Pike.³⁵ This station served the community for over a hundred years until its removal in the 1970s.³⁶
In the early days of Penns Neck, blacksmithing and wagon repairs were done by Nathaniel Labow and Thomas Benham.³⁷ In 1833, David Vorhees - who also owned much land around what would become Station Drive - succeeded Benham, operating the business until 1850.³⁸ John Benham and James Wainwright were among those that followed, until Mr. Vorhees came into possession of the establishments again, operating them as somewhat of a hobby.³⁹
The first recorded shoemaker in Penns Neck, according to the 1875 Everts & Stuart Map of West Windsor, was R. E. Thompson.⁴⁰
It is believed that Penns Neck was never home to more than one general store. Jacob Stryker was its operator, and was known for selling anything and everything - from a needle to an anchor.⁴¹ He catered to the bargemen who passed through via the canal.⁴²
Penns Neck's residents were very active in political affairs. Local and national ballots were hosted in the village, and it was frequently mentioned in Princeton editorials.⁴³ During the Civil War, residents were very pro-Union. Newspaper clippings from the Princeton Press, October 14, 1864, commented on a "Grand Mass Meeting and Flag Raising at Penns Neck,"⁴⁴ during which "a large and splendid new banner of the true Lincoln and Johnson type was flung to the breeze amid the cheers of the multitude and sweet strains of music from the band in attendance..."⁴⁵ At the event, Colonel Halsted avowed that General McClellan, a Democratic candidate for President, was a coward, hardly fit for a subordinate rank, and a disgrace to his current position.⁴⁶ Surely, the village's political dynamics reflected the bellicose national context!
The construction of Lake Carnegie in 1906 brought much recreation to the village (albeit ruin to Aqueduct as well).⁴⁷ Sixteen years later, in 1922, the Penns Neck Community Club was formed.⁴⁸ The organization, whose aim was "to aid the civic, moral, intellectual and social welfare of the community" constructed a clubhouse in 1924 and hosted dances, parties, plays, Bingo nights, and movies inside the establishment.⁴⁹ As a result of this local landmark, thousands of dollars were raised for charities, until the Community Club was dissolved in 1961.⁵⁰
In the early days of Penns Neck, blacksmithing and wagon repairs were done by Nathaniel Labow and Thomas Benham.³⁷ In 1833, David Vorhees - who also owned much land around what would become Station Drive - succeeded Benham, operating the business until 1850.³⁸ John Benham and James Wainwright were among those that followed, until Mr. Vorhees came into possession of the establishments again, operating them as somewhat of a hobby.³⁹
The first recorded shoemaker in Penns Neck, according to the 1875 Everts & Stuart Map of West Windsor, was R. E. Thompson.⁴⁰
It is believed that Penns Neck was never home to more than one general store. Jacob Stryker was its operator, and was known for selling anything and everything - from a needle to an anchor.⁴¹ He catered to the bargemen who passed through via the canal.⁴²
Penns Neck's residents were very active in political affairs. Local and national ballots were hosted in the village, and it was frequently mentioned in Princeton editorials.⁴³ During the Civil War, residents were very pro-Union. Newspaper clippings from the Princeton Press, October 14, 1864, commented on a "Grand Mass Meeting and Flag Raising at Penns Neck,"⁴⁴ during which "a large and splendid new banner of the true Lincoln and Johnson type was flung to the breeze amid the cheers of the multitude and sweet strains of music from the band in attendance..."⁴⁵ At the event, Colonel Halsted avowed that General McClellan, a Democratic candidate for President, was a coward, hardly fit for a subordinate rank, and a disgrace to his current position.⁴⁶ Surely, the village's political dynamics reflected the bellicose national context!
The construction of Lake Carnegie in 1906 brought much recreation to the village (albeit ruin to Aqueduct as well).⁴⁷ Sixteen years later, in 1922, the Penns Neck Community Club was formed.⁴⁸ The organization, whose aim was "to aid the civic, moral, intellectual and social welfare of the community" constructed a clubhouse in 1924 and hosted dances, parties, plays, Bingo nights, and movies inside the establishment.⁴⁹ As a result of this local landmark, thousands of dollars were raised for charities, until the Community Club was dissolved in 1961.⁵⁰
Washington Road bridge across Lake Carnegie
The 1920s also saw the rapid growth of the village with the construction of a number of streets surrounding the intersection of Washington Road and Brunswick Pike.⁵¹ Avenues such as Fisher Place and Varsity Avenue brought much suburban development to the area, much as Berrien City was doing concurrently.⁵²
Also around the same time was the planting of 136 Princeton Elm trees along Washington Road between the canal and Brunswick Pike.⁵³ Added to the National Historic Register in 1999, this cluster of trees has witnessed nearly a century of local development, fighting back against the extremely-deadly dutch elm disease in the process.⁵⁴ As of 1998, 76 of the original plantings still stood.⁵⁵
Perhaps the largest development for modern-day Penns Neck was the creation of a headquarters for Radio Corporation of America (RCA) in 1941.⁵⁶ This establishment, better known as the Sarnoff Corporation (named after world-famous founder David Sarnoff and formally merged with SRI International in 2011) was most famous for the development of color television and lithium-crystal display.⁵⁷ The organization revolutionized communication around the world, and much of this development took place within West Windsor.⁵⁸
Until the late 20th century, a swimming hole known as the "Sheepwash" was a popular place to recreate.⁵⁹ Located at the eastern end of SRI's property (where the Millstone River turns sharply eastward following its flow southward), it was the township's most popular informal recreational area, until the establishment of more formal parks such as Mercer County Park in the late 1960s.⁶⁰ Many longtime residents still wax romantic about their nostalgia for this leftover of their childhood.⁶¹
Also around the same time was the planting of 136 Princeton Elm trees along Washington Road between the canal and Brunswick Pike.⁵³ Added to the National Historic Register in 1999, this cluster of trees has witnessed nearly a century of local development, fighting back against the extremely-deadly dutch elm disease in the process.⁵⁴ As of 1998, 76 of the original plantings still stood.⁵⁵
Perhaps the largest development for modern-day Penns Neck was the creation of a headquarters for Radio Corporation of America (RCA) in 1941.⁵⁶ This establishment, better known as the Sarnoff Corporation (named after world-famous founder David Sarnoff and formally merged with SRI International in 2011) was most famous for the development of color television and lithium-crystal display.⁵⁷ The organization revolutionized communication around the world, and much of this development took place within West Windsor.⁵⁸
Until the late 20th century, a swimming hole known as the "Sheepwash" was a popular place to recreate.⁵⁹ Located at the eastern end of SRI's property (where the Millstone River turns sharply eastward following its flow southward), it was the township's most popular informal recreational area, until the establishment of more formal parks such as Mercer County Park in the late 1960s.⁶⁰ Many longtime residents still wax romantic about their nostalgia for this leftover of their childhood.⁶¹
RCA Laboratories in 1942
In 1939, the Federal Writer's Project published "Old Princeton's Neighbors," which described the history and context of Princeton, and, unsurprisingly, its neighbors.⁶² A description of Penns Neck in this publication stands out as an especially poignant observation of changes since the 1700s and 1800s: "Today, horse-drawn vehicles have almost completely disappeared from the superhighway (Brunswick Pike). Where the two rival taverns used to dispense hospitality to man and beast, lunch wagons and tourist houses furnish food and accommodation for the night. Filling stations and public garages have taken the place of the blacksmith and wheelwright shops. The church, the school, the community club and eight or nine new houses have been built, airplanes drone overhead, trains rush by on ribbons of steel, and streamlined automobiles tear off the miles with speed undreamed of before the new century. But farms still line the highway as they did when it was a trail."⁶³
Unfortunately, the years have not completely preserved this image of Penns Neck. As of 2019, all that remains of the hamlet's pre-20th century buildings is the Princeton Baptist Church, Red Lion Inn, and Schenck-Kovenhoven burial ground (also known as the "Old Conover Graveyard"), a cemetery likely housing the area's very first settlers.⁶⁴ In the 1800s, two land purchases ceded portions of West Windsor to Princeton - including much of Penns Neck.⁶⁵ Many buildings from the 1700s and 1800s were torn down around the turn of the 21st century, and traffic clogs the intersection of Washington Road and Brunswick Pike.⁶⁶
However, what is left still evokes the ghosts of a less bustling time - an era when farms and forest dominated the landscape and when stagecoaches, not cars, traversed the dirt road called Brunswick Pike.⁶⁷ The Sheepwash, while long-abandoned, still exists at the sharp bend in the Millstone River.⁶⁸ The church still serves the local populace, and the former Red Lion Inn still stands over the busy intersection. A cemetery behind the church acts as a counterpart to the Schenck-Kovenhoven cemetery.⁶⁹ And despite significant proposed development of this farmland by Princeton University, a dedicated effort is being made to protect and highlight this burial ground.⁷⁰ So, too, has the church itself been preserved.⁷¹ Over 325 years after William Penn's acquisition of the area, and over 280 years since the first influx of settlers, Penns Neck still retains a vestige of its historic heritage - if one looks hard enough.⁷²
Unfortunately, the years have not completely preserved this image of Penns Neck. As of 2019, all that remains of the hamlet's pre-20th century buildings is the Princeton Baptist Church, Red Lion Inn, and Schenck-Kovenhoven burial ground (also known as the "Old Conover Graveyard"), a cemetery likely housing the area's very first settlers.⁶⁴ In the 1800s, two land purchases ceded portions of West Windsor to Princeton - including much of Penns Neck.⁶⁵ Many buildings from the 1700s and 1800s were torn down around the turn of the 21st century, and traffic clogs the intersection of Washington Road and Brunswick Pike.⁶⁶
However, what is left still evokes the ghosts of a less bustling time - an era when farms and forest dominated the landscape and when stagecoaches, not cars, traversed the dirt road called Brunswick Pike.⁶⁷ The Sheepwash, while long-abandoned, still exists at the sharp bend in the Millstone River.⁶⁸ The church still serves the local populace, and the former Red Lion Inn still stands over the busy intersection. A cemetery behind the church acts as a counterpart to the Schenck-Kovenhoven cemetery.⁶⁹ And despite significant proposed development of this farmland by Princeton University, a dedicated effort is being made to protect and highlight this burial ground.⁷⁰ So, too, has the church itself been preserved.⁷¹ Over 325 years after William Penn's acquisition of the area, and over 280 years since the first influx of settlers, Penns Neck still retains a vestige of its historic heritage - if one looks hard enough.⁷²
Garret Schenck Farm & Jewell Family House
(Late 1730s)
One of Penns Neck's oldest buildings was erected shortly after Garret Schenck and John Kovenhoven's purchase of Penns Neck in 1737.⁷³ The first school in Penns Neck was also constructed on this farm.⁷⁴
At the time of the 1939 writing of "Old Princeton's Neighbors," Fred Cox is listed as living in this building.⁷⁵ Shaded by a grove of trees, the domicile was constructed of local wood and stone harvested from one of the quarries along the Millstone.⁷⁶ It was remodeled in 1890.⁷⁷ Unfortunately, the building was torn down around the turn of the 21st century.⁷⁸
A description from "Old Princeton's Neighbors" provides an image of the Schenck House's context: "The Hendrickson place on the same side of the road was also originally owned by Captain John Schenck. Hessian soldiers took complete possession of the premises during the Revolution. According to tradition, Captain Schenck sent information to Washington through a spy, Zeke Anderson, concerning the number of British soldiers stationed there. This took place just before the battle of Princeton. Across the road, the building owned by Stewart L. Reed remains much as it must have been when it was built before the Revolution, except for the later classic revival porch... Just beyond is the fine house of native stone built in 1929 by L. Beaumont Reed, the owner. In the midst of a beautiful lawn, with a sunken garden in the rear, is easily the show place of Penns Neck. On the adjoining tract is a white, brick-filled wooden house more than 100 years old, the property of Mrs. Edwin J. Morris...Silver maples, jack pines, dogwoods, and Judas trees shade the lawn, and in front is a large balm of Gilead tree. From 1930 to 1932 the place was used by the Alumni Country Club. The name was changed from Casa Colona to Fairacres in 1936."⁷⁹
Unfortunately, in 2019 this context is no longer recognizable. None of these aforementioned houses remain, and the once-serene setting is now filled with the sound of passing traffic. What does remain is the farmland to the west of Brunswick Pike.
(Late 1730s)
One of Penns Neck's oldest buildings was erected shortly after Garret Schenck and John Kovenhoven's purchase of Penns Neck in 1737.⁷³ The first school in Penns Neck was also constructed on this farm.⁷⁴
At the time of the 1939 writing of "Old Princeton's Neighbors," Fred Cox is listed as living in this building.⁷⁵ Shaded by a grove of trees, the domicile was constructed of local wood and stone harvested from one of the quarries along the Millstone.⁷⁶ It was remodeled in 1890.⁷⁷ Unfortunately, the building was torn down around the turn of the 21st century.⁷⁸
A description from "Old Princeton's Neighbors" provides an image of the Schenck House's context: "The Hendrickson place on the same side of the road was also originally owned by Captain John Schenck. Hessian soldiers took complete possession of the premises during the Revolution. According to tradition, Captain Schenck sent information to Washington through a spy, Zeke Anderson, concerning the number of British soldiers stationed there. This took place just before the battle of Princeton. Across the road, the building owned by Stewart L. Reed remains much as it must have been when it was built before the Revolution, except for the later classic revival porch... Just beyond is the fine house of native stone built in 1929 by L. Beaumont Reed, the owner. In the midst of a beautiful lawn, with a sunken garden in the rear, is easily the show place of Penns Neck. On the adjoining tract is a white, brick-filled wooden house more than 100 years old, the property of Mrs. Edwin J. Morris...Silver maples, jack pines, dogwoods, and Judas trees shade the lawn, and in front is a large balm of Gilead tree. From 1930 to 1932 the place was used by the Alumni Country Club. The name was changed from Casa Colona to Fairacres in 1936."⁷⁹
Unfortunately, in 2019 this context is no longer recognizable. None of these aforementioned houses remain, and the once-serene setting is now filled with the sound of passing traffic. What does remain is the farmland to the west of Brunswick Pike.
Schenck-Kovenhoven Cemetery (1730s or 1740s)
Located far into a field west of Route 1 and north of Washington Road, this is the oldest burial ground in the township and the original cemetery of the Schenck and Kovenhoven families.⁸⁰ It is also known as the "Old Conover Graveyard."⁸¹ The cemetery contains around 95 graves, dating from 1746 to to 1941.⁸² Some of the earliest gravestones, made of slate, are well preserved, and feature many prominent families, including the Schencks, Covenhovens, Hights, Dyes, Howells, Van Dykes, Slaybacks, Stouts, Crusers, Martins, and Rowlands.⁸³ The oldest legible grave bears only the inscription "M.I. 1746."⁸⁴
The wall surrounding the cemetery was constructed 1876, as per a cornerstone near its entrance.⁸⁶ This boundary was the result of efforts by a Miss Eliza Tilton Schenck, the graveyard's erstwhile caretaker.⁸⁷
The graveyard fell into disrepair in the late 20th century, but has since been restored to its former state.⁸⁸ It is still maintained by the local church (after being acquired by the Princeton Baptist Church in 1969) and compassionate community members.⁸⁹
In 2020, a proposal for a new Princeton University campus around the cemetery incorporates preservation of this cemetery into its design, even making it a focal point for the campus!⁹⁰
Located far into a field west of Route 1 and north of Washington Road, this is the oldest burial ground in the township and the original cemetery of the Schenck and Kovenhoven families.⁸⁰ It is also known as the "Old Conover Graveyard."⁸¹ The cemetery contains around 95 graves, dating from 1746 to to 1941.⁸² Some of the earliest gravestones, made of slate, are well preserved, and feature many prominent families, including the Schencks, Covenhovens, Hights, Dyes, Howells, Van Dykes, Slaybacks, Stouts, Crusers, Martins, and Rowlands.⁸³ The oldest legible grave bears only the inscription "M.I. 1746."⁸⁴
The wall surrounding the cemetery was constructed 1876, as per a cornerstone near its entrance.⁸⁶ This boundary was the result of efforts by a Miss Eliza Tilton Schenck, the graveyard's erstwhile caretaker.⁸⁷
The graveyard fell into disrepair in the late 20th century, but has since been restored to its former state.⁸⁸ It is still maintained by the local church (after being acquired by the Princeton Baptist Church in 1969) and compassionate community members.⁸⁹
In 2020, a proposal for a new Princeton University campus around the cemetery incorporates preservation of this cemetery into its design, even making it a focal point for the campus!⁹⁰
Red Lion Inn menu, 1807
261 Washington Road - The Red Lion Inn (1807)
In 1807, local residents William and Mary Kovenhoven constructed a tavern along the newly-constructed Brunswick Pike.⁹¹ Shortly afterwards, in December of 1808, John Joline, the establishment's manager (the Kovenhovens were its landlords) applied for an inkeeper's license.⁹² The application reveals that he had already managed the tavern for a year and lived in the building.⁹³ Several Penns Neck residents, including Joseph Stout, William Kovenhoven, Richard Thomas, and Joseph Grover attested to Joline's character.⁹⁴
Joline was subsequently granted a license to house travelers and their mounts like in his inn and adjacent barn, respectively.⁹⁵ The inn - likely only known then as "Joline's Inn" (it would eventually adopt the moniker "Red Lion Inn") - quickly turned into a focal point for Penns Neck.⁹⁶
John Joline and George Follet were among the inn's most memorable landlords.⁹⁷ Both owned taverns in Princeton as well; Follet also owned the City Hotel in New Brunswick.⁹⁸ George Follet made a habit of hanging a sign saying "Red Lion" outside of each of his establishments, thus establishing the moniker of the inn in Penns Neck.⁹⁹ He had a reputation for catering well and keeping guests fed and happy. ¹⁰⁰
Joline, also known for an inviting establishment, had a curious following in Princeton.¹⁰¹ The temptation for students to loiter around his tavern and witness the arrival and departure of travelers was so great that local authorities passed regulations forbidding their presence at the location.¹⁰² Nevertheless, Joline tended to the youth well, treating them to clandestine suppers and midnight sleigh rides in the winter.¹⁰³
In 1808, West Windsor's government started holding meetings in the inn.¹⁰⁴ This mirrored the very earliest township meetings, which were hosted in Widow Bergen's Tavern in Dutch Neck.¹⁰⁵ It was not until the erection of a town hall in 1900 that any designated township administrative building was constructed.¹⁰⁶
In 1807, local residents William and Mary Kovenhoven constructed a tavern along the newly-constructed Brunswick Pike.⁹¹ Shortly afterwards, in December of 1808, John Joline, the establishment's manager (the Kovenhovens were its landlords) applied for an inkeeper's license.⁹² The application reveals that he had already managed the tavern for a year and lived in the building.⁹³ Several Penns Neck residents, including Joseph Stout, William Kovenhoven, Richard Thomas, and Joseph Grover attested to Joline's character.⁹⁴
Joline was subsequently granted a license to house travelers and their mounts like in his inn and adjacent barn, respectively.⁹⁵ The inn - likely only known then as "Joline's Inn" (it would eventually adopt the moniker "Red Lion Inn") - quickly turned into a focal point for Penns Neck.⁹⁶
John Joline and George Follet were among the inn's most memorable landlords.⁹⁷ Both owned taverns in Princeton as well; Follet also owned the City Hotel in New Brunswick.⁹⁸ George Follet made a habit of hanging a sign saying "Red Lion" outside of each of his establishments, thus establishing the moniker of the inn in Penns Neck.⁹⁹ He had a reputation for catering well and keeping guests fed and happy. ¹⁰⁰
Joline, also known for an inviting establishment, had a curious following in Princeton.¹⁰¹ The temptation for students to loiter around his tavern and witness the arrival and departure of travelers was so great that local authorities passed regulations forbidding their presence at the location.¹⁰² Nevertheless, Joline tended to the youth well, treating them to clandestine suppers and midnight sleigh rides in the winter.¹⁰³
In 1808, West Windsor's government started holding meetings in the inn.¹⁰⁴ This mirrored the very earliest township meetings, which were hosted in Widow Bergen's Tavern in Dutch Neck.¹⁰⁵ It was not until the erection of a town hall in 1900 that any designated township administrative building was constructed.¹⁰⁶
The parsonage, late 1800s. Note the barn (burned in 1894) in the extreme right of the photograph and the houses across the street.
Doubtless, any meeting in this establishment was made more exciting by the 12-cent quarts of "strong beer" offered at the bar.¹⁰⁷
One erstwhile innkeeper of particular note was Asher Temple, who served for many years as its owner as well.¹⁰⁸ In 1817, his name appeared on the township tax roll as the owner of 150 acres of land, 3 horses, 5 "neat cattle," 1 dog, 1 riding chair, and 2 sills.¹⁰⁹ Undoubtedly, he was a prominent resident. Indeed, around the same time, he is referred to in other records as being a constable!¹¹⁰
In 1819, ownership of the Red Lion Inn was transferred from William Kovenhoven to Asher Temple for the then-whopping sum of $4,000.¹¹¹ This payment soon spelled trouble for Temple; On May 25, 1826, he and Kenneth Dye (Dey), an associate, borrowed $200 from a James Green.¹¹² Although they agreed to pay back the money within 60 days, a May, 1827 action by Green against the two was heard by the Supreme Court in Middlesex County.¹¹³
The court subsequently issued a judgement against the two debtors, ordering that their real estate be sold to satisfy the amount owed.¹¹⁴ Unfortunately, they could not gather the money, and a result the inn was sold at a public auction to a man named Gooden Hall for $200.¹¹⁵ Hall, a resident of New York City, allowed Asher Temple to remain an innkeeper.¹¹⁶
One erstwhile innkeeper of particular note was Asher Temple, who served for many years as its owner as well.¹⁰⁸ In 1817, his name appeared on the township tax roll as the owner of 150 acres of land, 3 horses, 5 "neat cattle," 1 dog, 1 riding chair, and 2 sills.¹⁰⁹ Undoubtedly, he was a prominent resident. Indeed, around the same time, he is referred to in other records as being a constable!¹¹⁰
In 1819, ownership of the Red Lion Inn was transferred from William Kovenhoven to Asher Temple for the then-whopping sum of $4,000.¹¹¹ This payment soon spelled trouble for Temple; On May 25, 1826, he and Kenneth Dye (Dey), an associate, borrowed $200 from a James Green.¹¹² Although they agreed to pay back the money within 60 days, a May, 1827 action by Green against the two was heard by the Supreme Court in Middlesex County.¹¹³
The court subsequently issued a judgement against the two debtors, ordering that their real estate be sold to satisfy the amount owed.¹¹⁴ Unfortunately, they could not gather the money, and a result the inn was sold at a public auction to a man named Gooden Hall for $200.¹¹⁵ Hall, a resident of New York City, allowed Asher Temple to remain an innkeeper.¹¹⁶
The Red Lion Inn c. 1926
Perhaps as a way to recuperate his finances, Asher Temple also operated a semi-successful horse racing circuit.¹¹⁷ In September of 1835, the "Trenton State Gazette" noted: "Penn's Neck Races - The Races will commence over this course on the first day of October and continue for two days. For particulars see handbills. Asher Temple."¹¹⁸ Although it is unknown for exactly how long the horse racing continued, a column nearly 30 years later in a local paper bemoaned: "We hear complaints that the law prohibiting horse-racing is violated frequently at Penns Neck. There are frequent races there, large sums of money bet, and crowds of people assembled. The nuisance will probably be laid before the next Grand Jury." ¹¹⁹
Other Penns Neck innkeepers mentioned in township minutes included: Kenneth Dye (1829), James A. Donaldson (1836), Philip Suydam (1836), Samuel Gulick (1839), Vorhees Konover (1842), James Davisson (1845), Henry C. Kittinger (1847), G. V. Embly (1850), and Noah Reed (1875-1878).¹²⁰
So great was the inn's reputation for politics that on September 2, 1836, the "Whig," a local newspaper, published an editorial entitled "The W.W. Humbug," lamenting the village's democrats' support of Martin Van Buren: "We have not heard whether any written pledges were produced at this meeting, to be signed by every one present to support Martin Van Buren, right or wrong, such as they actually used in 1827, to prevent the Jackson men from deserting their cause. Gentlemen, if you do not get some of them to sign pledges soon, very soon, it will be too late. You will want pledges more now than in 1827, and even pledges will not save you. The awful foreboding of the overthrow may be gathered from the present election returns. Your doom is sealed, you may assume airs of confidence and talk big, but it's no go - Van Buren is not General Jackson, nor never will be."¹²¹
Other Penns Neck innkeepers mentioned in township minutes included: Kenneth Dye (1829), James A. Donaldson (1836), Philip Suydam (1836), Samuel Gulick (1839), Vorhees Konover (1842), James Davisson (1845), Henry C. Kittinger (1847), G. V. Embly (1850), and Noah Reed (1875-1878).¹²⁰
So great was the inn's reputation for politics that on September 2, 1836, the "Whig," a local newspaper, published an editorial entitled "The W.W. Humbug," lamenting the village's democrats' support of Martin Van Buren: "We have not heard whether any written pledges were produced at this meeting, to be signed by every one present to support Martin Van Buren, right or wrong, such as they actually used in 1827, to prevent the Jackson men from deserting their cause. Gentlemen, if you do not get some of them to sign pledges soon, very soon, it will be too late. You will want pledges more now than in 1827, and even pledges will not save you. The awful foreboding of the overthrow may be gathered from the present election returns. Your doom is sealed, you may assume airs of confidence and talk big, but it's no go - Van Buren is not General Jackson, nor never will be."¹²¹
Prompted by the editorial, James Olden (whose family owned a farm in the village) called for a meeting of Whigs at the Red Lion Inn, then under the ownership of Suydam.¹²²
In 1879, the church acquired the Red Lion Inn for $1600 from Isaac G. Walters, the administrator of the estate of Charles Reed, who in turn, was the son of the innkeeper Noah Reed.¹²³ Then the minister of the church, the Reverend L. O. Grenelle, who was also a superintendent of the Peddie Institute in Princeton, wrote: "The old hotel property on the corner had long been an eyesore to the church. I had a big fight on hand and in the start stood alone, but soon had others to aid in the struggle. I distinctly remember that I said on one discourse one of these institutions will go down, either the dram shop of the Church, but the temperance move was on the gain. Some who had been indifferent took a bold stand."¹²⁴
Several members of the community were married in the parsonage.¹²⁵ The bay window at its rear (facing the adjacent cemetery) was the place where couples exchanged vows.¹²⁶
50 years later, it was relocated to its current location, closer to the intersection of Washington Road and Brunswick Pike.¹²⁷ The former Red Lion Inn, while devoid of the life that was present during its operation as a tavern, still stands as a memorial to Penns Neck's history.¹²⁸
In 1879, the church acquired the Red Lion Inn for $1600 from Isaac G. Walters, the administrator of the estate of Charles Reed, who in turn, was the son of the innkeeper Noah Reed.¹²³ Then the minister of the church, the Reverend L. O. Grenelle, who was also a superintendent of the Peddie Institute in Princeton, wrote: "The old hotel property on the corner had long been an eyesore to the church. I had a big fight on hand and in the start stood alone, but soon had others to aid in the struggle. I distinctly remember that I said on one discourse one of these institutions will go down, either the dram shop of the Church, but the temperance move was on the gain. Some who had been indifferent took a bold stand."¹²⁴
Several members of the community were married in the parsonage.¹²⁵ The bay window at its rear (facing the adjacent cemetery) was the place where couples exchanged vows.¹²⁶
50 years later, it was relocated to its current location, closer to the intersection of Washington Road and Brunswick Pike.¹²⁷ The former Red Lion Inn, while devoid of the life that was present during its operation as a tavern, still stands as a memorial to Penns Neck's history.¹²⁸
Church (with its old steeple) next to the Stout family house. Photo courtesy of the Historical Society of Princeton.
261 Washington Road - Princeton Baptist Church (1812)
The Schencks and Kovenhovens who settled in Penns Neck were Baptists.¹²⁹ In 1787, they joined with neighbors from surrounding communities to found a church.¹³⁰ The small congregation met in residents' homes around Penns Neck and Princeton, featuring masses organized by Peter Wilson of the Hightstown Church.¹³¹ A well-known evangelist at the time, he was active in establishing a number of Baptist congregations in the area.¹³²
In 1812, the Kovenhovens sold an acre of land directly north of the inn lot to the Baptist congregation.¹³³ Some of the deed's trustees were: Joseph Stout, Ezekiel R. Wilson, William Vaugn, and Joseph Grover.¹³⁴ A church was quickly constructed under their guidance, and with the help of local builder Elias Bailey, and the Princeton Baptist Church was dedicated in December of 1812.¹³⁵
The cemetery behind the church dates back to the its construction.¹³⁶ Dozens of graves indicate well-established West Windsor surnames, including Dey, Vorhees, Engelke, Major, Applegate, Benham, Stults, Jewell, Maple, Crater, Cook, Berrien, Atchley, Mount, Gulick, Bosenbury, Grant, Wyckoff, Reed, Thomas, Hooper, and Grover.¹³⁷ Doubtless, some of these names must seem familiar to our reader!
The first grave to be established in the cemetery was that of a Kovenhoven child who died on August 24, 1815.¹³⁸ Mary Kovenhoven (erstwhile landlord of the Red Lion Inn) passed on January 4, 1817, at the age of 38.¹³⁹ While her gravestone is no longer visible, her husband William's is, indicating a death date of September 24, 1838 and an age of 70 years, 9 months, and 6 days.¹⁴⁰ More information about this graveyard can be found via the Historical Society's graveyard map and our Princeton Baptist Church cemetery index.
The church's first pastor was the Reverend John Cooper, who served the church from 1813 to 1815, albeit only spending one fourth of his working days in Pens Neck.¹⁴¹ He was succeeded by Alexander Hastings, who served until 1815.¹⁴²
On August 9, 1821, a notable resolution passed to allow female members of the church to have voting rights in all church business.¹⁴³ This occurred roughly a century before a federal mandate gave women the right to vote across the country.¹⁴⁴
The Schencks and Kovenhovens who settled in Penns Neck were Baptists.¹²⁹ In 1787, they joined with neighbors from surrounding communities to found a church.¹³⁰ The small congregation met in residents' homes around Penns Neck and Princeton, featuring masses organized by Peter Wilson of the Hightstown Church.¹³¹ A well-known evangelist at the time, he was active in establishing a number of Baptist congregations in the area.¹³²
In 1812, the Kovenhovens sold an acre of land directly north of the inn lot to the Baptist congregation.¹³³ Some of the deed's trustees were: Joseph Stout, Ezekiel R. Wilson, William Vaugn, and Joseph Grover.¹³⁴ A church was quickly constructed under their guidance, and with the help of local builder Elias Bailey, and the Princeton Baptist Church was dedicated in December of 1812.¹³⁵
The cemetery behind the church dates back to the its construction.¹³⁶ Dozens of graves indicate well-established West Windsor surnames, including Dey, Vorhees, Engelke, Major, Applegate, Benham, Stults, Jewell, Maple, Crater, Cook, Berrien, Atchley, Mount, Gulick, Bosenbury, Grant, Wyckoff, Reed, Thomas, Hooper, and Grover.¹³⁷ Doubtless, some of these names must seem familiar to our reader!
The first grave to be established in the cemetery was that of a Kovenhoven child who died on August 24, 1815.¹³⁸ Mary Kovenhoven (erstwhile landlord of the Red Lion Inn) passed on January 4, 1817, at the age of 38.¹³⁹ While her gravestone is no longer visible, her husband William's is, indicating a death date of September 24, 1838 and an age of 70 years, 9 months, and 6 days.¹⁴⁰ More information about this graveyard can be found via the Historical Society's graveyard map and our Princeton Baptist Church cemetery index.
The church's first pastor was the Reverend John Cooper, who served the church from 1813 to 1815, albeit only spending one fourth of his working days in Pens Neck.¹⁴¹ He was succeeded by Alexander Hastings, who served until 1815.¹⁴²
On August 9, 1821, a notable resolution passed to allow female members of the church to have voting rights in all church business.¹⁴³ This occurred roughly a century before a federal mandate gave women the right to vote across the country.¹⁴⁴
Some old names are displayed behind the church!
However, the church continued to enforce other, more conservative values, throughout the community.¹⁴⁵ On June 15, 1850, the congregation passed a resolution appointing Sister Stout and Sister Mount as authorities who would police "certain individuals for the crime of dancing."¹⁴⁶ Seen as a sin of the utmost seriousness, this crime against morality was undoubtedly hard to actually enforce!¹⁴⁷
Around 1830, the church stopped referring to the town as "Williamsborough," adopting the name Penns Neck instead.¹⁴⁸ This coincided with a more general trend in the change of the town's colloquial moniker.¹⁴⁹
In 1850, while the Reverend William C. Ulyat was serving his first year as the church's pastor, a major rift in the church and community occurred. Since six years prior, a movement had been building in the congregation to relocate the church to Princeton had been building.¹⁵⁰ Doubtlessly viewed as a more likely place for the church to grow, Princeton featured a larger population, a well-established university, and a more prestigious image.¹⁵¹ Thus, a resolution was established on August 3, 1850: "Resolved that in the providence of God we Do Believe the time has come when this Church Should Built A house of Worship in the Borough of Princeton and there have the center of our laboure (sic)."¹⁵²
At the same meeting, Brothers Jewel and Lee were appointed to discuss with a Mr. R.C. Stockton of Princeton about a lot upon which to construct the church.¹⁵³ Soon, the group found a plot of land on Canal Street (now Alexander Street).¹⁵⁴ On March 15, 1851, a "general invitation" was extended to everyone in the congregation to help dig a cellar for the building.¹⁵⁵
However, despite rapid development in these plans, the congregation was far from having a unanimous consent to relocate the church. At a meeting on October 30, 1981, it was "resolved in the contemplated removal of the Church to the New House in Princeton Some of our Bretheren desire to remain & maintain Worship at Penns Neck."¹⁵⁶ This group, a minority in the church and without the funds of its wealthier members, stayed behind in Penns Neck, while plans for a new edifice moved forwards.¹⁵⁷
Thus, the church split into two parts. The new building on Canal Street in Princeton was dedicated on December 1, 1852.¹⁵⁸ By the beginning of the following month, the group that remained in Penns Neck (23 strong at the time) reformed into the West Windsor Particular Baptist Church.¹⁵⁹ However, due to its small population, this congregation only lasted until 1859.¹⁶⁰
However, there was still hope for a Penns Neck church! On May 16, 1874, the Princeton congregation voted unanimously to return to their original location.¹⁶¹ The Reverend William Ulyat wrote in his personal papers (which are now in the possession of the Historical Society of Princeton): "In September 1877, the trustees sold the Meeting House in Princeton, and with the proceeds, after paying the mortgage, interest and expenses, commenced the work of remodeling and enlarging the house at Penns Neck. This house has stood as erected in 1812, a period of 65 years. It had become uncomfortable in winter as the roof began to leak, the plastering to fall off and the wind to intrude so the venerable building was turned front to the road, the entire covering of the frame inside and out taken off, twelve feet added to the length for a vestibule, and also a belfry and spire added. The work was carried to a successful completion within the year 1877."¹⁶²
Around 1830, the church stopped referring to the town as "Williamsborough," adopting the name Penns Neck instead.¹⁴⁸ This coincided with a more general trend in the change of the town's colloquial moniker.¹⁴⁹
In 1850, while the Reverend William C. Ulyat was serving his first year as the church's pastor, a major rift in the church and community occurred. Since six years prior, a movement had been building in the congregation to relocate the church to Princeton had been building.¹⁵⁰ Doubtlessly viewed as a more likely place for the church to grow, Princeton featured a larger population, a well-established university, and a more prestigious image.¹⁵¹ Thus, a resolution was established on August 3, 1850: "Resolved that in the providence of God we Do Believe the time has come when this Church Should Built A house of Worship in the Borough of Princeton and there have the center of our laboure (sic)."¹⁵²
At the same meeting, Brothers Jewel and Lee were appointed to discuss with a Mr. R.C. Stockton of Princeton about a lot upon which to construct the church.¹⁵³ Soon, the group found a plot of land on Canal Street (now Alexander Street).¹⁵⁴ On March 15, 1851, a "general invitation" was extended to everyone in the congregation to help dig a cellar for the building.¹⁵⁵
However, despite rapid development in these plans, the congregation was far from having a unanimous consent to relocate the church. At a meeting on October 30, 1981, it was "resolved in the contemplated removal of the Church to the New House in Princeton Some of our Bretheren desire to remain & maintain Worship at Penns Neck."¹⁵⁶ This group, a minority in the church and without the funds of its wealthier members, stayed behind in Penns Neck, while plans for a new edifice moved forwards.¹⁵⁷
Thus, the church split into two parts. The new building on Canal Street in Princeton was dedicated on December 1, 1852.¹⁵⁸ By the beginning of the following month, the group that remained in Penns Neck (23 strong at the time) reformed into the West Windsor Particular Baptist Church.¹⁵⁹ However, due to its small population, this congregation only lasted until 1859.¹⁶⁰
However, there was still hope for a Penns Neck church! On May 16, 1874, the Princeton congregation voted unanimously to return to their original location.¹⁶¹ The Reverend William Ulyat wrote in his personal papers (which are now in the possession of the Historical Society of Princeton): "In September 1877, the trustees sold the Meeting House in Princeton, and with the proceeds, after paying the mortgage, interest and expenses, commenced the work of remodeling and enlarging the house at Penns Neck. This house has stood as erected in 1812, a period of 65 years. It had become uncomfortable in winter as the roof began to leak, the plastering to fall off and the wind to intrude so the venerable building was turned front to the road, the entire covering of the frame inside and out taken off, twelve feet added to the length for a vestibule, and also a belfry and spire added. The work was carried to a successful completion within the year 1877."¹⁶²
Behind the Princeton Baptist Church
In 1885, the church finally acquired a baptistery.¹⁶³ Previously, baptisms were held at the Millstone River to the north, amidst Aqueduct.¹⁶⁴ A year later, another acquisition - this time of a row of fifteen horse and carriage sheds - demonstrated the importance of horses in a society that would not see regular car usage for another several decades.¹⁶⁵ After eight years of use, the barn was destroyed in a fire in 1894.¹⁶⁶
Seven years later, a wave of "grip" spread among the parish.¹⁶⁷ So severe was the outbreak that all church activities, save Sunday morning mass, were discontinued because it "laid hold the Pastor and people."¹⁶⁸ At least one member of the congregation died, perhaps as a result.¹⁶⁹ 9 years later, in 1901, an outbreak of diphtheria led to another death, this time of one of the Sunday school students.¹⁷⁰
The Princeton Baptist Church was listed on National Register of Historic Places in 1989.¹⁷¹ At some point it also lost its old steeple, being replaced by a much-reduced roof.¹⁷² However, beyond that, the edifice, while slightly relocated and significantly expanded, still displays much of its original architecture - a much-needed reminder of Penns Neck's history adjacent to the village's busy intersection.¹⁷³
Seven years later, a wave of "grip" spread among the parish.¹⁶⁷ So severe was the outbreak that all church activities, save Sunday morning mass, were discontinued because it "laid hold the Pastor and people."¹⁶⁸ At least one member of the congregation died, perhaps as a result.¹⁶⁹ 9 years later, in 1901, an outbreak of diphtheria led to another death, this time of one of the Sunday school students.¹⁷⁰
The Princeton Baptist Church was listed on National Register of Historic Places in 1989.¹⁷¹ At some point it also lost its old steeple, being replaced by a much-reduced roof.¹⁷² However, beyond that, the edifice, while slightly relocated and significantly expanded, still displays much of its original architecture - a much-needed reminder of Penns Neck's history adjacent to the village's busy intersection.¹⁷³
Pens Neck Inn (Early 1800s)
In the early 1800s, Richard Warren, Phineas Withington, and William Stockton bought a dwelling opposite the Red Lion Inn and remodeled it to serve as an inn as well.¹⁷⁴ Warren advertised the building for sale in 1836.¹⁷⁵ In 1850, David S. Vorhees, the local blacksmith, bought the property and converted it into his home.¹⁷⁶
Like the Red Lion Inn, this tavern was a center of community life. Local and national elections hosted their ballots there; public meetings and auctions were also frequent occurrences.¹⁷⁷ These inns were prime locations to meet travelers with a variety of life experiences from around the country, who had been travelling along the pike, the railroad, and the canal.¹⁷⁸
The building was later cut in two and relocated to Lower Harrison Street in Aqueduct, where it functioned as two separate residences.¹⁷⁹
In the early 1800s, Richard Warren, Phineas Withington, and William Stockton bought a dwelling opposite the Red Lion Inn and remodeled it to serve as an inn as well.¹⁷⁴ Warren advertised the building for sale in 1836.¹⁷⁵ In 1850, David S. Vorhees, the local blacksmith, bought the property and converted it into his home.¹⁷⁶
Like the Red Lion Inn, this tavern was a center of community life. Local and national elections hosted their ballots there; public meetings and auctions were also frequent occurrences.¹⁷⁷ These inns were prime locations to meet travelers with a variety of life experiences from around the country, who had been travelling along the pike, the railroad, and the canal.¹⁷⁸
The building was later cut in two and relocated to Lower Harrison Street in Aqueduct, where it functioned as two separate residences.¹⁷⁹
3723 Brunswick Pike - Montgomery Berrien House (c. 1830)
In 1829, Henry B. Van Doren purchased this property, then a vacant lot, from Charles M. Campbell.¹⁸⁰ Soon afterwards, he constructed this house.¹⁸¹ The assignees of Van Doren sold the property to Montgomery Berrien in 1834, who owned it until 1852, when he sold it to William Fisher (who also owned 3721 Brunswick Pike until it was sold to James S. Fisher in 1851).¹⁸² In 1870, William Fisher sold this property to Thomas Jewell, owner and operator of the large farm that covered the fields to the northwest of the Brunswick Pike-Washington Road intersection.¹⁸³ Jewell reputedly used the building to house tenant farmhands.¹⁸⁴
This 2-story, 5-bay wood-framed clapboard house displayed typical mid-19th century residential architecture.¹⁸⁵ It was sadly torn down along with its neighbors around the turn of the 21st century.¹⁸⁶
In 1829, Henry B. Van Doren purchased this property, then a vacant lot, from Charles M. Campbell.¹⁸⁰ Soon afterwards, he constructed this house.¹⁸¹ The assignees of Van Doren sold the property to Montgomery Berrien in 1834, who owned it until 1852, when he sold it to William Fisher (who also owned 3721 Brunswick Pike until it was sold to James S. Fisher in 1851).¹⁸² In 1870, William Fisher sold this property to Thomas Jewell, owner and operator of the large farm that covered the fields to the northwest of the Brunswick Pike-Washington Road intersection.¹⁸³ Jewell reputedly used the building to house tenant farmhands.¹⁸⁴
This 2-story, 5-bay wood-framed clapboard house displayed typical mid-19th century residential architecture.¹⁸⁵ It was sadly torn down along with its neighbors around the turn of the 21st century.¹⁸⁶
3721 Brunswick Pike - James S. Fisher House (c. 1850)
Historic maps indicate that a house existed on this site in the 1830s, suggesting that this structure was built 20 years earlier than indicated here.¹⁸⁷ However, the style of this 5-bay, 2-story, wood-framed clapboard house suggests that it was more likely constructed in the middle of the 19th century.¹⁸⁸ In this case, the house was likely constructed by William or James S. Fisher.¹⁸⁹
William had purchased the property from William K. Schenck, heir of John A. Schenck, in 1848.¹⁹⁰ He then sold the property to James S. Fisher, a relative, in 1851.¹⁹¹ The house was then bequeathed to James and his wife Joana's son in 1862.¹⁹² The property remained a Fisher family asset until 1909, when Elizabeth B. Snook purchased a half-interest.¹⁹³ Ten years later, in 1918, she obtained the other half.¹⁹⁴
This structure was typical of mid-1800s Italianate architecture.¹⁹⁵ Located directly in the heart of Penns Neck, it was a familiar site to the town's inhabitants, housing generations of Penns Neck residents.¹⁹⁶ Unfortunately, the house was torn down around the turn of the 21st century.¹⁹⁷
Historic maps indicate that a house existed on this site in the 1830s, suggesting that this structure was built 20 years earlier than indicated here.¹⁸⁷ However, the style of this 5-bay, 2-story, wood-framed clapboard house suggests that it was more likely constructed in the middle of the 19th century.¹⁸⁸ In this case, the house was likely constructed by William or James S. Fisher.¹⁸⁹
William had purchased the property from William K. Schenck, heir of John A. Schenck, in 1848.¹⁹⁰ He then sold the property to James S. Fisher, a relative, in 1851.¹⁹¹ The house was then bequeathed to James and his wife Joana's son in 1862.¹⁹² The property remained a Fisher family asset until 1909, when Elizabeth B. Snook purchased a half-interest.¹⁹³ Ten years later, in 1918, she obtained the other half.¹⁹⁴
This structure was typical of mid-1800s Italianate architecture.¹⁹⁵ Located directly in the heart of Penns Neck, it was a familiar site to the town's inhabitants, housing generations of Penns Neck residents.¹⁹⁶ Unfortunately, the house was torn down around the turn of the 21st century.¹⁹⁷
While the majority of this 1951 image is of the RCA Laboratory, notice the Engelke Farmhouse in the distance!
3740 Brunswick Pike - The Old Engelke and Olden farms (1859)
In 1825, Henry Engelke was born in Germany.¹⁹⁸ As a young man he moved to the United States, settling in Princeton.¹⁹⁹ There, he worked for James Carnahan, erstwhile president of Princeton University.²⁰⁰ While living in Princeton, he met, fell in love with, and married Miss Adeline Blue.²⁰¹ The two had a child - James Carnahan Engelke - in December 1858.²⁰²
In the spring of 1859, Henry Engelke bought what would eventually be known as the "Old Engelke Farm."²⁰³ Facing Brunswick Pike, it abutted the "Olden Farm" to the south (which itself abutted the "Sheepwash" to the east - more on that below).²⁰⁴ The Olden tract had been the property of the Olden family for generations, ever since Thomas Olden, a prominent 18th-century Princeton resident, established the farm in the 1700s.²⁰⁵ According to legend, during the American Revolution, General George Washington reviewed troops during the Battle of Princeton from a house that stood on the site.²⁰⁶
Henry Engelke began his farm with a cow, a few pigs, a handful of chickens, a beehive, and a contingent of mules, the smallest of which he called "Jinny."²⁰⁷ He subsequently planted several fruit trees and berry bushes.²⁰⁸ The apple orchard on his property included such strains as "Northern Spies," "Bellflowers," "Greenings," "Smith Ciders," "Fall Pippins," and "Rustics."²⁰⁹ Pear ( of the "Seckels," "Bartletts," and "Pound" varieties) cherry and peach trees similarly provided succulent fruit to hungry neighbors.²¹⁰ Gooseberries, blackberries, currants, and strawberries were further delicacies.²¹¹ Neighborhood boys helped with picking fruits.²¹²
In 1825, Henry Engelke was born in Germany.¹⁹⁸ As a young man he moved to the United States, settling in Princeton.¹⁹⁹ There, he worked for James Carnahan, erstwhile president of Princeton University.²⁰⁰ While living in Princeton, he met, fell in love with, and married Miss Adeline Blue.²⁰¹ The two had a child - James Carnahan Engelke - in December 1858.²⁰²
In the spring of 1859, Henry Engelke bought what would eventually be known as the "Old Engelke Farm."²⁰³ Facing Brunswick Pike, it abutted the "Olden Farm" to the south (which itself abutted the "Sheepwash" to the east - more on that below).²⁰⁴ The Olden tract had been the property of the Olden family for generations, ever since Thomas Olden, a prominent 18th-century Princeton resident, established the farm in the 1700s.²⁰⁵ According to legend, during the American Revolution, General George Washington reviewed troops during the Battle of Princeton from a house that stood on the site.²⁰⁶
Henry Engelke began his farm with a cow, a few pigs, a handful of chickens, a beehive, and a contingent of mules, the smallest of which he called "Jinny."²⁰⁷ He subsequently planted several fruit trees and berry bushes.²⁰⁸ The apple orchard on his property included such strains as "Northern Spies," "Bellflowers," "Greenings," "Smith Ciders," "Fall Pippins," and "Rustics."²⁰⁹ Pear ( of the "Seckels," "Bartletts," and "Pound" varieties) cherry and peach trees similarly provided succulent fruit to hungry neighbors.²¹⁰ Gooseberries, blackberries, currants, and strawberries were further delicacies.²¹¹ Neighborhood boys helped with picking fruits.²¹²
Mrs Engelke and Sons - James, Henry, Frank, William, Edward, and Charles
Henry Engelke's main sources of income were strawberries and watercress.²¹³ Engelke planted watercress every year, harvesting the plant in the spring and early summer.²¹⁴ The cress was subsequently cut and packed into small baskets, after which they were transported to the Princeton Junction railroad station and shipped to Newark.²¹⁵
A two-story house sat on the property, providing a home for the family.²¹⁶ The first floor contained a parlor, sitting room, dining room, and kitchen.²¹⁷ One stairway led up from the sitting room; another from the kitchen.²¹⁸ The second floor featured four bedrooms.²¹⁹ Behind the house was a shed and a series of grape vines, creating an arbor that stretched until a chicken yard.²²⁰ Near the house were three shade trees - a linden, an ash, and an arbor vitae.²²¹ In front of the house, approaching Brunswick Pike, were two large maples from which, every summer, hung huge festoons of the reddish-orange flowers of a Virginia Creeper.²²²
At the southwest corner of the property was a spring, which met up with another small brook, forming a pond halfway between the front and rear of the property.²²³ This reservoir was a popular attraction throughout the year: in the spring, fishermen brought their boats out onto the water to catch their next big story; in the winter, local youth could often be found ice skating at this spot.²²⁴
Lenni Lenape relics, such as arrows, aces, hatches, and mallets were a common find on the Engelke property and its surroundings.²²⁵ So frequent were the findings that it is possible an encampment had been made here.²²⁶
A two-story house sat on the property, providing a home for the family.²¹⁶ The first floor contained a parlor, sitting room, dining room, and kitchen.²¹⁷ One stairway led up from the sitting room; another from the kitchen.²¹⁸ The second floor featured four bedrooms.²¹⁹ Behind the house was a shed and a series of grape vines, creating an arbor that stretched until a chicken yard.²²⁰ Near the house were three shade trees - a linden, an ash, and an arbor vitae.²²¹ In front of the house, approaching Brunswick Pike, were two large maples from which, every summer, hung huge festoons of the reddish-orange flowers of a Virginia Creeper.²²²
At the southwest corner of the property was a spring, which met up with another small brook, forming a pond halfway between the front and rear of the property.²²³ This reservoir was a popular attraction throughout the year: in the spring, fishermen brought their boats out onto the water to catch their next big story; in the winter, local youth could often be found ice skating at this spot.²²⁴
Lenni Lenape relics, such as arrows, aces, hatches, and mallets were a common find on the Engelke property and its surroundings.²²⁵ So frequent were the findings that it is possible an encampment had been made here.²²⁶
The Olden farmhouse, from the NJ State Archives
An old sawmill at the bank of the Millstone River provided tools to cut down the nearby forest's trees, providing much-needed logs in the wintertime.²²⁷
Henry Engelke and Adeline Blue had six sons. From oldest to youngest, they were: James, Henry, Frank, the twins Edward and William, and Charles.²²⁸ The elder Engelke passed away in 1897, after which three sons - Henry, William, and Charles - stayed behind to take fare of their mother until her death in 1905.²²⁹ James and Frank were married and had their own families at the time; Edward, too, was married but had no children.²³⁰
After Adeline died, Henry purchased the property.²³¹ James lived with his family on the farm and worked the soil until his death in 1925.²³²
The last member of the Olden family to farm the parcel was Sarah E. Olden, who sold her lot to the Radio Corporation of America Laboratory (RCA) around 1941.²³³ RCA also bought the Engelke property and built its research center upon the two tracts.²³⁴ No traces of the old farms exist outside of longtime locals' memories.²³⁵
Henry Engelke and Adeline Blue had six sons. From oldest to youngest, they were: James, Henry, Frank, the twins Edward and William, and Charles.²²⁸ The elder Engelke passed away in 1897, after which three sons - Henry, William, and Charles - stayed behind to take fare of their mother until her death in 1905.²²⁹ James and Frank were married and had their own families at the time; Edward, too, was married but had no children.²³⁰
After Adeline died, Henry purchased the property.²³¹ James lived with his family on the farm and worked the soil until his death in 1925.²³²
The last member of the Olden family to farm the parcel was Sarah E. Olden, who sold her lot to the Radio Corporation of America Laboratory (RCA) around 1941.²³³ RCA also bought the Engelke property and built its research center upon the two tracts.²³⁴ No traces of the old farms exist outside of longtime locals' memories.²³⁵
Site of the former station
Penns Neck Train Station (1860s)
When the Dinkey line running into Princeton was constructed in the 1860s, a decision was made to place a train station in Penns Neck.²³⁶ Located just east of the train's intersection with Brunswick Pike, this station provided access to both Princeton and Princeton Junction.²³⁷ The location was originally at grade with the rest of its context; later, a bridge provided access over the increasingly-busy Brunswick Pike.²³⁸
Penn Central Transportation assumed operations in 1968, 3 years before the line's discontinuation.²³⁹ The last time a train stopped here was on January 31, 1971.²⁴⁰ Although the branch line still provides regular service between Princeton and Princeton Junction, the station in Penns Neck was torn down decades ago.²⁴¹ Nothing remains of this once-frequented stop.²⁴²
When the Dinkey line running into Princeton was constructed in the 1860s, a decision was made to place a train station in Penns Neck.²³⁶ Located just east of the train's intersection with Brunswick Pike, this station provided access to both Princeton and Princeton Junction.²³⁷ The location was originally at grade with the rest of its context; later, a bridge provided access over the increasingly-busy Brunswick Pike.²³⁸
Penn Central Transportation assumed operations in 1968, 3 years before the line's discontinuation.²³⁹ The last time a train stopped here was on January 31, 1971.²⁴⁰ Although the branch line still provides regular service between Princeton and Princeton Junction, the station in Penns Neck was torn down decades ago.²⁴¹ Nothing remains of this once-frequented stop.²⁴²
3637 Brunswick Pike - the Penns Neck School's third iteration
3637 Brunswick Pike - Penns Neck One-Room Schoolhouse (1849-1875)
As with Dutch Neck, the first schoolhouse in Penns Neck was built in the mid-1700s (c. 1760) and was constructed out of logs by members of the community.²⁴³ However, unlike the original Dutch Neck schoolhouse, this building served an additional function as a residence during its operation as a school.²⁴⁴ There were three different locations for the Penns Neck School: the first on the former Jewell Farm, the second near the now-demolished Penns Neck Dinkey station, and the third further along Brunswick Pike.²⁴⁵ When the school's location was moved, the building materials were also reused at the new location, preserving historic elements throughout the centuries.²⁴⁶
The third iteration of the school was purchased by William Mount and later converted into a modern bungalow.²⁴⁷ References in the 1930s indicate ownership by Bernard Mount.²⁴⁸
In 1859 there was an effort to build a new school, and a then-significant sum of $800 was raised to purchase land and build a new institution.²⁴⁹ However, the Civil War soon diverted funds to pay soldiers in 1862 and 1863.²⁵⁰ It was not until half a century later that a new school was to be constructed in this village.²⁵¹
As with Dutch Neck, the first schoolhouse in Penns Neck was built in the mid-1700s (c. 1760) and was constructed out of logs by members of the community.²⁴³ However, unlike the original Dutch Neck schoolhouse, this building served an additional function as a residence during its operation as a school.²⁴⁴ There were three different locations for the Penns Neck School: the first on the former Jewell Farm, the second near the now-demolished Penns Neck Dinkey station, and the third further along Brunswick Pike.²⁴⁵ When the school's location was moved, the building materials were also reused at the new location, preserving historic elements throughout the centuries.²⁴⁶
The third iteration of the school was purchased by William Mount and later converted into a modern bungalow.²⁴⁷ References in the 1930s indicate ownership by Bernard Mount.²⁴⁸
In 1859 there was an effort to build a new school, and a then-significant sum of $800 was raised to purchase land and build a new institution.²⁴⁹ However, the Civil War soon diverted funds to pay soldiers in 1862 and 1863.²⁵⁰ It was not until half a century later that a new school was to be constructed in this village.²⁵¹
Lake Carnegie (1906)
Before Lake Carnegie was constructed, Stony Brook ran in its place, perpendicular to Millstone River.²⁵² The two bodies of water met up close to where the aqueduct exists today.²⁵³
Also prior to the lake's construction, Princeton University's varsity crew used the constricting Delaware & Raritan Canal for practice, running the risk of collisions with barges.²⁵⁴ In 1902, one of their members, Howard Butler, painted a portrait of Andrew Carnegie.²⁵⁵ While the two were talking about the lochs Carnegie had built in Scotland, Butler suggested the idea that he and his teammates had thought of: building a lake adjacent to the canal.²⁵⁶
Carnegie, interested, soon bought up property along the west side of the canal, bounded by Kingston to the north, Plainsboro and West Windsor to the west, Princeton to the east, and Princeton Basin to the south.²⁵⁷ By 1905, Carnegie had the land he needed to start construction, and soon, excavation was underway.²⁵⁸
The creation of the lake necessitated the clearing of forest, excavation of dirt, removal of several buildings, as well and construction of a few bridges: the Washington Road Bridge in Penns Neck, and the Harrison Road bridge in Aqueduct, in 1906.²⁵⁹ A dam was constructed on the Millstone River near Kingston in order to fill up the excavated area with water.²⁶⁰
Before Lake Carnegie was constructed, Stony Brook ran in its place, perpendicular to Millstone River.²⁵² The two bodies of water met up close to where the aqueduct exists today.²⁵³
Also prior to the lake's construction, Princeton University's varsity crew used the constricting Delaware & Raritan Canal for practice, running the risk of collisions with barges.²⁵⁴ In 1902, one of their members, Howard Butler, painted a portrait of Andrew Carnegie.²⁵⁵ While the two were talking about the lochs Carnegie had built in Scotland, Butler suggested the idea that he and his teammates had thought of: building a lake adjacent to the canal.²⁵⁶
Carnegie, interested, soon bought up property along the west side of the canal, bounded by Kingston to the north, Plainsboro and West Windsor to the west, Princeton to the east, and Princeton Basin to the south.²⁵⁷ By 1905, Carnegie had the land he needed to start construction, and soon, excavation was underway.²⁵⁸
The creation of the lake necessitated the clearing of forest, excavation of dirt, removal of several buildings, as well and construction of a few bridges: the Washington Road Bridge in Penns Neck, and the Harrison Road bridge in Aqueduct, in 1906.²⁵⁹ A dam was constructed on the Millstone River near Kingston in order to fill up the excavated area with water.²⁶⁰
Riders traversing what would soon become Lake Carnegie in the early 1900s
On December 5, 1906, Andrew Carnegie attended the opening ceremony.²⁶¹ He was met by then-university president Woodrow Wilson, and with much fanfare, the lake was opened.²⁶²
Over the next few decades, the lake experienced numerous flooding issues.²⁶³ Dredging occurred several times, most notably in 1971, when the lake finally achieved a sustainable depth.²⁶⁴
After Lake Carnegie's construction, Aqueduct gradually vanished as a community.²⁶⁵ Millstone River became effectively unusable for the local mills, after what was previously meadow land flooded, forcing the relocation or razing of a few houses.²⁶⁶ In addition, the community was now physically divided by the much-widened Millstone River.²⁶⁷
However, the lake has also brought many benefits to the larger region - particularly recreation.²⁶⁸ It remains an ideal place for Princeton's rowing team to practice, residents to fish and ice skate, and provides scenic vistas for the townships of Kingston, Plainsboro, Princeton, and West Windsor.²⁶⁹ In 2006, Lake Carnegie turned 100, with much fanfare.²⁷⁰
Over the next few decades, the lake experienced numerous flooding issues.²⁶³ Dredging occurred several times, most notably in 1971, when the lake finally achieved a sustainable depth.²⁶⁴
After Lake Carnegie's construction, Aqueduct gradually vanished as a community.²⁶⁵ Millstone River became effectively unusable for the local mills, after what was previously meadow land flooded, forcing the relocation or razing of a few houses.²⁶⁶ In addition, the community was now physically divided by the much-widened Millstone River.²⁶⁷
However, the lake has also brought many benefits to the larger region - particularly recreation.²⁶⁸ It remains an ideal place for Princeton's rowing team to practice, residents to fish and ice skate, and provides scenic vistas for the townships of Kingston, Plainsboro, Princeton, and West Windsor.²⁶⁹ In 2006, Lake Carnegie turned 100, with much fanfare.²⁷⁰
Looking toward West Windsor from Princeton
Washington Road Bridge (c. 1906)
The construction of Lake Carnegie necessitated the creation of three major bridges - one along Harrison Road in Aqueduct, one in Kingston to the north, and one in Penns Neck.²⁷¹ This last bridge, along Washington Road, is a stone arched bridge, much like the one along Harrison Street.²⁷² Originally a single-lane bridge, it was widened in the 1930s.²⁷³
The construction of Lake Carnegie necessitated the creation of three major bridges - one along Harrison Road in Aqueduct, one in Kingston to the north, and one in Penns Neck.²⁷¹ This last bridge, along Washington Road, is a stone arched bridge, much like the one along Harrison Street.²⁷² Originally a single-lane bridge, it was widened in the 1930s.²⁷³
Penns Neck School (1917)
This school was built in 1917 as a near-identical twin to Dutch Neck Elementary School at the northwest corner of Alexander Road and Brunswick Pike.²⁷⁴ Both of these schools and Wicoff were the product of a transformative set of years, when significantly more accommodating schools were constructed for an expanding youth population.²⁷⁵ From its inception to 1967, the school handled students from grades 1-8.²⁷⁶ According to Georgiana Hauk, principal from 1922 to 1964, many students were children who helped their families run their farms upon graduation from school.²⁷⁷
One of the most beloved teachers in Penns Neck School was also one of its earliest - Miss Marcia Higgins.²⁷⁸ She was remembered for her dog Shep, who broke a trail for her during an overwhelming snowstorm.²⁷⁹ Soon, he was a regular attendant at classes, playing games at recess and begging for childrens' lunches.²⁸⁰
However, this trend gradually gave way to aspirations for higher education.²⁸¹ In 1973 the building was sold and subsequently used as offices.²⁸² It was demolished in 1995 when the Alexander Road overpass was built.²⁸³
This school was built in 1917 as a near-identical twin to Dutch Neck Elementary School at the northwest corner of Alexander Road and Brunswick Pike.²⁷⁴ Both of these schools and Wicoff were the product of a transformative set of years, when significantly more accommodating schools were constructed for an expanding youth population.²⁷⁵ From its inception to 1967, the school handled students from grades 1-8.²⁷⁶ According to Georgiana Hauk, principal from 1922 to 1964, many students were children who helped their families run their farms upon graduation from school.²⁷⁷
One of the most beloved teachers in Penns Neck School was also one of its earliest - Miss Marcia Higgins.²⁷⁸ She was remembered for her dog Shep, who broke a trail for her during an overwhelming snowstorm.²⁷⁹ Soon, he was a regular attendant at classes, playing games at recess and begging for childrens' lunches.²⁸⁰
However, this trend gradually gave way to aspirations for higher education.²⁸¹ In 1973 the building was sold and subsequently used as offices.²⁸² It was demolished in 1995 when the Alexander Road overpass was built.²⁸³
Fisher Place, Varsity Avenue, Mather Avenue - 1920s
As of 2019, many of the streets to either side of Washington Road are less than a century old.²⁸⁴ They were established during a period of rapid suburban growth within the township in the first quarter of the 20th century, mimicking the growth of Princeton Junction at the same time (with the construction of Berrien City).²⁸⁵
Beginning in the 1920s, former farmland adjacent to Brunswick Pike was platted as residential lots.²⁸⁶ The plot of land on the southwest quadrant of the Washington Road-Brunswick Pike intersection was purchased by Julius Wildermuth from Princeton University around this time.²⁸⁷ Subdivided in 1924, this land was known as the "Varsity View" subdivision, and includes land to the southwest of Washington Road, including present-day Varsity Avenue and Mather Avenue.²⁸⁸
The land on the opposite (northeast) side of Washington Road was concurrently turned into residential lots as well.²⁸⁹ Margaret Rule, who had inherited this tract of land from James. S. Fisher, had this area subdivided, and lots laid out on either side of the newly-constructed "Fisher Place."²⁹⁰ Further subdivisions occurred on Lower Harrison Street as well.²⁹¹
Penns Neck's 1920s development is visible to this day.²⁹² Lining Varsity Avenue and Fisher place are dozens of 1920s-era houses, representing the township's first period of rapid suburban growth.²⁹³
As of 2019, many of the streets to either side of Washington Road are less than a century old.²⁸⁴ They were established during a period of rapid suburban growth within the township in the first quarter of the 20th century, mimicking the growth of Princeton Junction at the same time (with the construction of Berrien City).²⁸⁵
Beginning in the 1920s, former farmland adjacent to Brunswick Pike was platted as residential lots.²⁸⁶ The plot of land on the southwest quadrant of the Washington Road-Brunswick Pike intersection was purchased by Julius Wildermuth from Princeton University around this time.²⁸⁷ Subdivided in 1924, this land was known as the "Varsity View" subdivision, and includes land to the southwest of Washington Road, including present-day Varsity Avenue and Mather Avenue.²⁸⁸
The land on the opposite (northeast) side of Washington Road was concurrently turned into residential lots as well.²⁸⁹ Margaret Rule, who had inherited this tract of land from James. S. Fisher, had this area subdivided, and lots laid out on either side of the newly-constructed "Fisher Place."²⁹⁰ Further subdivisions occurred on Lower Harrison Street as well.²⁹¹
Penns Neck's 1920s development is visible to this day.²⁹² Lining Varsity Avenue and Fisher place are dozens of 1920s-era houses, representing the township's first period of rapid suburban growth.²⁹³
Washington Road: Washington Road Elm Allée (1920s)
The growth of American suburbs in the early 1900s and the transformation of forested and agrarian land into semi-urban contexts inspired various conversations about how to best plan residential developments.²⁹⁴ Among these urban planning debates were differing opinions on how to confront the natural landscape.²⁹⁵ Some, such as the prominent landscape architect Jans Jensen, advocated for a "natural" feeling, emphasizing the appearance of little human intervention.²⁹⁶ Others, including John Nolen - another well-established landscape designer best-known for his "City Beautiful" plans - advocated for a formal landscape architecture along streets in urban areas and informal designs in rural contexts.²⁹⁷
The Washington Road Elm Allée represents a triumph of the latter philosophy.²⁹⁸ Regularly-spaced and uniform in size, these venerable, stately trees provide both an aesthetically-pleasing view and shade for passing cars.²⁹⁹ These American Elms also hearken back to an age of growth and utopian vision that permeated the first half of the 1900s.³⁰⁰
This landscape feature was developed in the 1920s by horticulturalist William Flemer.³⁰¹ This vista of American Elms - 136 originally - was planted along Washington Road between Brunswick Pike and the Delaware and Raritan Canal to beautify the avenue and beckon visitors and residents alike into Princeton.³⁰² The tree's image as a "stately" icon made it a popular choice for landscape architecture designs around Princeton.³⁰³ Thus, it was a logical choice that this type of tree was chosen to line Washington Road.³⁰⁴
The growth of American suburbs in the early 1900s and the transformation of forested and agrarian land into semi-urban contexts inspired various conversations about how to best plan residential developments.²⁹⁴ Among these urban planning debates were differing opinions on how to confront the natural landscape.²⁹⁵ Some, such as the prominent landscape architect Jans Jensen, advocated for a "natural" feeling, emphasizing the appearance of little human intervention.²⁹⁶ Others, including John Nolen - another well-established landscape designer best-known for his "City Beautiful" plans - advocated for a formal landscape architecture along streets in urban areas and informal designs in rural contexts.²⁹⁷
The Washington Road Elm Allée represents a triumph of the latter philosophy.²⁹⁸ Regularly-spaced and uniform in size, these venerable, stately trees provide both an aesthetically-pleasing view and shade for passing cars.²⁹⁹ These American Elms also hearken back to an age of growth and utopian vision that permeated the first half of the 1900s.³⁰⁰
This landscape feature was developed in the 1920s by horticulturalist William Flemer.³⁰¹ This vista of American Elms - 136 originally - was planted along Washington Road between Brunswick Pike and the Delaware and Raritan Canal to beautify the avenue and beckon visitors and residents alike into Princeton.³⁰² The tree's image as a "stately" icon made it a popular choice for landscape architecture designs around Princeton.³⁰³ Thus, it was a logical choice that this type of tree was chosen to line Washington Road.³⁰⁴
Originally, the concept for a tree-lined avenue proved controversial. Members of the Princeton Board of Trustees fought with one of their fellow members, Walter Hope, who championed the design.³⁰⁵ Hope eventually triumphed, and the trees were planted.³⁰⁶
Over the years, countless Elms across the continent have fallen victim to the deadly Dutch Elm Disease.³⁰⁷ Destroying much of the Elm population of North America, this fast-spreading fungus dries up leaves and wilts entire limbs, resulting in the eventual death of its host.³⁰⁸ Even fungicide injections have proven ineffective against this contagion.³⁰⁹ However, the Washington Road Elm Allée has proved especially hardy.³¹⁰ Very few of its members succumbed to the disease; since its inception, the 60 that have died out (76 still remain as of 2019) did so due to the stress from near-continuous automobile traffic.³¹¹ In their place have been planted a series of Norway Maples (in 1974), as well as new "Liberty" American Elms in 1990.³¹² In the same year as the maple plantings was a second row of trees - Delaware Elms - further away along the northern side of Washington Road.³¹³ The Washington Road Elm Allée was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1999.³¹⁴
The Washington Road Elm Allée remains the most extensive surviving elm-lined road in central New Jersey.³¹⁵ It showcases a nearly-continuous canopy of leaves, functioning as a dramatic natural "portal" that welcomes travelers into Princeton.³¹⁶ This is an enduring vestige of the "City Beautiful" movement of the early 20th century and, as of 2019, remains one of West Windsor's most well-known natural features, and represents the transition of the township from a dispersed agrarian community to an increasingly suburban municipality.³¹⁷
Over the years, countless Elms across the continent have fallen victim to the deadly Dutch Elm Disease.³⁰⁷ Destroying much of the Elm population of North America, this fast-spreading fungus dries up leaves and wilts entire limbs, resulting in the eventual death of its host.³⁰⁸ Even fungicide injections have proven ineffective against this contagion.³⁰⁹ However, the Washington Road Elm Allée has proved especially hardy.³¹⁰ Very few of its members succumbed to the disease; since its inception, the 60 that have died out (76 still remain as of 2019) did so due to the stress from near-continuous automobile traffic.³¹¹ In their place have been planted a series of Norway Maples (in 1974), as well as new "Liberty" American Elms in 1990.³¹² In the same year as the maple plantings was a second row of trees - Delaware Elms - further away along the northern side of Washington Road.³¹³ The Washington Road Elm Allée was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1999.³¹⁴
The Washington Road Elm Allée remains the most extensive surviving elm-lined road in central New Jersey.³¹⁵ It showcases a nearly-continuous canopy of leaves, functioning as a dramatic natural "portal" that welcomes travelers into Princeton.³¹⁶ This is an enduring vestige of the "City Beautiful" movement of the early 20th century and, as of 2019, remains one of West Windsor's most well-known natural features, and represents the transition of the township from a dispersed agrarian community to an increasingly suburban municipality.³¹⁷
Club members. Photograph taken from "Old Princeton's Neighbors."
3700 Brunswick Pike - Penns Neck Community Clubhouse (1924)
In 1922, members of the Princeton Baptist Church formed this organization for the purpose of aiding "the civic, moral, intellectual and social welfare of the community."³¹⁸ The group's first meeting was hosted at the home of Fred N. Cox (formerly the homestead of Garret Schenck) on the Jewell Farm.³¹⁹
The group's first members included Raymond Britton, president; W.B. Padgett, vice president, Fred N. Cox, treasurer, and Mrs. Robert Engelke, the recording secretary.³²⁰ Frank Vaugh was appointed head of a committee to secure a building for the group and L. Beaumont Reed head of the building finance committee during the first meeting.³²¹
Two years later, construction began on a plot of land owned by Julius C. Wildermuth - also a member of the building committee.³²² The Penns Neck Community Club building was constructed by a number of club members representing a variety of trades.³²³ It contained a dining hall, a kitchen, and an auditorium with six hundred seats.³²⁴ It served as a social center for the village, hosting dances, parties, plays, and even "moving picture" exhibitions!³²⁵ Bingo was later hosted at the club, raising thousands of dollars for local charities.³²⁶
In the late 1930s, the club had about sixty members.³²⁷ It remained a fixture of the community for decades until its dissolution in 1961.³²⁸ The clubhouse and an adjacent parcel were sold to Techne Ltc, which used the building for offices.³²⁹ In 1994, Tracy DeBruyn of Trumpingham, England bought the property.³³⁰ It was torn down in 2017.³³¹
In 1922, members of the Princeton Baptist Church formed this organization for the purpose of aiding "the civic, moral, intellectual and social welfare of the community."³¹⁸ The group's first meeting was hosted at the home of Fred N. Cox (formerly the homestead of Garret Schenck) on the Jewell Farm.³¹⁹
The group's first members included Raymond Britton, president; W.B. Padgett, vice president, Fred N. Cox, treasurer, and Mrs. Robert Engelke, the recording secretary.³²⁰ Frank Vaugh was appointed head of a committee to secure a building for the group and L. Beaumont Reed head of the building finance committee during the first meeting.³²¹
Two years later, construction began on a plot of land owned by Julius C. Wildermuth - also a member of the building committee.³²² The Penns Neck Community Club building was constructed by a number of club members representing a variety of trades.³²³ It contained a dining hall, a kitchen, and an auditorium with six hundred seats.³²⁴ It served as a social center for the village, hosting dances, parties, plays, and even "moving picture" exhibitions!³²⁵ Bingo was later hosted at the club, raising thousands of dollars for local charities.³²⁶
In the late 1930s, the club had about sixty members.³²⁷ It remained a fixture of the community for decades until its dissolution in 1961.³²⁸ The clubhouse and an adjacent parcel were sold to Techne Ltc, which used the building for offices.³²⁹ In 1994, Tracy DeBruyn of Trumpingham, England bought the property.³³⁰ It was torn down in 2017.³³¹
The now-silent waters of what was once known as the "Sheepwash"
Millstone River - The Sheepwash
(Date unknown)
Opposite 70 Washington Road, on the north side of the street, stands a little-noticed padlocked gate marking the start of a dirt road that meanders through the woods beyond.³³² Venture far enough, and you will come upon the banks of one of the widest portions of the Millstone River in the township.³³³ This area - where the Millstone River bends eastward after dipping south, east of SRI International complex, was once a beloved recreational spot known to locals as the "sheepwash."³³⁴ It has long been abandoned with the construction of larger parks across the township, and remains closed-off as part of SRI International's property.³³⁵
The area is a now-wooded tract high above the water, but was at one point cleared out and sandy.³³⁶ A web-work of roads led to this spot, named after its original use for farmers, who would take their sheep and wash them in the cool waters of the Millstone before shearing them.³³⁷ But so, too, did humans bathe in the river.³³⁸ The high sandy bank along the southern side of the river's sweeping curve provided a large beach, and a rope swing, attached by an unknown hero of decades past, provided endless entertainment for kids of all ages.³³⁹
Before the large parks of the 1960s and beyond were constructed within the township, the Sheepwash was the place to be.³⁴⁰ Youngsters, used to toiling on their farms, would delight in cooling off in the Millstone's current.³⁴¹ It was not unusual to see flat bed trucks carrying twenty kids from across the county pull up and unload their rambunctious cargo.³⁴²
Picnics and Fourth of July festivals were seasonal delights.³⁴³ Money exchanged hands freely as both sodas and snacks went like hotcakes, and ball games excited both youth and adults alike.³⁴⁴ This was Americana at its purest - sun-soaked days filled with laughter and delight - and, as of 2019, memories still abound in the minds of the township's longest-lived residents.³⁴⁵
(Date unknown)
Opposite 70 Washington Road, on the north side of the street, stands a little-noticed padlocked gate marking the start of a dirt road that meanders through the woods beyond.³³² Venture far enough, and you will come upon the banks of one of the widest portions of the Millstone River in the township.³³³ This area - where the Millstone River bends eastward after dipping south, east of SRI International complex, was once a beloved recreational spot known to locals as the "sheepwash."³³⁴ It has long been abandoned with the construction of larger parks across the township, and remains closed-off as part of SRI International's property.³³⁵
The area is a now-wooded tract high above the water, but was at one point cleared out and sandy.³³⁶ A web-work of roads led to this spot, named after its original use for farmers, who would take their sheep and wash them in the cool waters of the Millstone before shearing them.³³⁷ But so, too, did humans bathe in the river.³³⁸ The high sandy bank along the southern side of the river's sweeping curve provided a large beach, and a rope swing, attached by an unknown hero of decades past, provided endless entertainment for kids of all ages.³³⁹
Before the large parks of the 1960s and beyond were constructed within the township, the Sheepwash was the place to be.³⁴⁰ Youngsters, used to toiling on their farms, would delight in cooling off in the Millstone's current.³⁴¹ It was not unusual to see flat bed trucks carrying twenty kids from across the county pull up and unload their rambunctious cargo.³⁴²
Picnics and Fourth of July festivals were seasonal delights.³⁴³ Money exchanged hands freely as both sodas and snacks went like hotcakes, and ball games excited both youth and adults alike.³⁴⁴ This was Americana at its purest - sun-soaked days filled with laughter and delight - and, as of 2019, memories still abound in the minds of the township's longest-lived residents.³⁴⁵
175 Washington Road - Jerab's Market (1936)
When Jennie and Joseph Jerab founded the Penns Neck general store at the corner of Washington Road and Morning Sun Avenue in October 1936, they may have had no clue how their small shop would become a local institution.³⁴⁶ Operating 7 days a week, from the early morning until 10 or 11 pm, the establishment provided a varietyof goods and food to the local populace.³⁴⁷ A sign in its window promising "fancy groceries," the store was run by a hard-working Czechoslovakian family who lived on the first floor and rented out three apartments on the second.³⁴⁸
During the day, Jennie operated the store while Joseph worked as a butcher in Trenton.³⁴⁹ At night, Jerab returned to the store and helped until it closed.³⁵⁰ They had come to America in the united states, and, reputedly, in line with their reputation as a hardworking immigrant family, only ever took one vacation in 1948 to visit their home country.³⁵¹
The couple had two children - Frank and Jane - as well as a daschund named Tony.³⁵² When Jane was 10, a 17-year-old boy named James Swift began working in the store.³⁵³ Over time, a romance blossomed and the two were married in 1944.³⁵⁴ They had a child, Jamie Thoma.³⁵⁵
When Jennie and Joseph Jerab founded the Penns Neck general store at the corner of Washington Road and Morning Sun Avenue in October 1936, they may have had no clue how their small shop would become a local institution.³⁴⁶ Operating 7 days a week, from the early morning until 10 or 11 pm, the establishment provided a varietyof goods and food to the local populace.³⁴⁷ A sign in its window promising "fancy groceries," the store was run by a hard-working Czechoslovakian family who lived on the first floor and rented out three apartments on the second.³⁴⁸
During the day, Jennie operated the store while Joseph worked as a butcher in Trenton.³⁴⁹ At night, Jerab returned to the store and helped until it closed.³⁵⁰ They had come to America in the united states, and, reputedly, in line with their reputation as a hardworking immigrant family, only ever took one vacation in 1948 to visit their home country.³⁵¹
The couple had two children - Frank and Jane - as well as a daschund named Tony.³⁵² When Jane was 10, a 17-year-old boy named James Swift began working in the store.³⁵³ Over time, a romance blossomed and the two were married in 1944.³⁵⁴ They had a child, Jamie Thoma.³⁵⁵
In a 1997 interview, Jane recalled that traffic on Washington Road was almost nonexistent.³⁵⁶ In her spare time, she would walk around Penns Neck looking for empty soda bottles she could turn in for cash in order to swim at the local swimming pool (now the Washington Road tennis courts).³⁵⁷ Her best friend, Adele, lived near the Baptist church down the road.³⁵⁸ She, in time, would marry Jane's brother, Frank.³⁵⁹
Frank himself worked as a short order cook at the Princeton Grill (later the Clarksville Diner) - a Penns Neck and Clarksville staple, that is undoubtedly West Windsor's best travelled building.³⁶⁰
When the Giant Tiger - the first large supermarket in the area - opened in Trenton, Mr. Jerab realized that his store's days were numbered.³⁶¹ In 1962, he sold the store to Aaron and Libby Salkin.³⁶² The building is now a Papa John's.
Frank himself worked as a short order cook at the Princeton Grill (later the Clarksville Diner) - a Penns Neck and Clarksville staple, that is undoubtedly West Windsor's best travelled building.³⁶⁰
When the Giant Tiger - the first large supermarket in the area - opened in Trenton, Mr. Jerab realized that his store's days were numbered.³⁶¹ In 1962, he sold the store to Aaron and Libby Salkin.³⁶² The building is now a Papa John's.
RCA Laboratory, 1945 (facing south)
3740 Brunswick Pike - RCA/SRI International (1941)
A major contributor to the growth of the northern portion of West Windsor was the establishment of the Radio Corporation of America Laboratory (later the David Sarnoff Research Center, and now SRI International).³⁶⁶ Constructed on the former Engelke and Olden properties, this facility was intended to be the largest radio research laboratory in the world.³⁶⁷ Throughout its history, it has helped usher in a modern era of electronics, making numerous landmark discoveries and creating a variety of revolutionary technologies.³⁶⁸
Less than a year after the founding of RCA in 1919, the corporation established its first major research complex at Riverhead, Long Island, New York.³⁶⁹ This facility monitored and studied overseas radio communications.³⁷⁰ Prior to World War II, RCA's subsequent research facilities were scattered throughout half a dozen complexes.³⁷¹ With war encroaching at the end of the 1930s, the company, led by David Sarnoff (also an erstwhile head of NBC) made the decision to purchase 300 acres of land in West Windsor Township in March 1941.³⁷² Plans for the construction of 250,00 square feet of research space were swiftly drawn up.³⁷³
Ground was broken for the complex in August 1941, and the cornerstone of the first building, a three-story structure with a one-story wing, in November.³⁷⁴ The cornerstone included some examples of radio and electronic devices of the day, quantities of technical literature relating to said devices, and a copy of the day's (November 15) New York Times.³⁷⁵ At the dedication ten months later, David Sarnoff spoke of the laboratory's effort in the ongoing war effort:
A major contributor to the growth of the northern portion of West Windsor was the establishment of the Radio Corporation of America Laboratory (later the David Sarnoff Research Center, and now SRI International).³⁶⁶ Constructed on the former Engelke and Olden properties, this facility was intended to be the largest radio research laboratory in the world.³⁶⁷ Throughout its history, it has helped usher in a modern era of electronics, making numerous landmark discoveries and creating a variety of revolutionary technologies.³⁶⁸
Less than a year after the founding of RCA in 1919, the corporation established its first major research complex at Riverhead, Long Island, New York.³⁶⁹ This facility monitored and studied overseas radio communications.³⁷⁰ Prior to World War II, RCA's subsequent research facilities were scattered throughout half a dozen complexes.³⁷¹ With war encroaching at the end of the 1930s, the company, led by David Sarnoff (also an erstwhile head of NBC) made the decision to purchase 300 acres of land in West Windsor Township in March 1941.³⁷² Plans for the construction of 250,00 square feet of research space were swiftly drawn up.³⁷³
Ground was broken for the complex in August 1941, and the cornerstone of the first building, a three-story structure with a one-story wing, in November.³⁷⁴ The cornerstone included some examples of radio and electronic devices of the day, quantities of technical literature relating to said devices, and a copy of the day's (November 15) New York Times.³⁷⁵ At the dedication ten months later, David Sarnoff spoke of the laboratory's effort in the ongoing war effort:
RCA Laboratory, 1951. Note the old Princeton Operating Station and 31 Logan Drive in the distance (described in detail on the "Aqueduct" page).
"It is significant that the foundations of this building were laid in times of peace, and its superstructure has been raised in time of war. Similarly, the modern sciences of radio and electronics have their roots in peaceful soil - in the search by men of good will for ways and means to make the world a better place to live in. Yet these sciences, and all of science, are now enlisted in a total war... While it is true that the decision will be made on the battlefield, the high seas, and in the air, the fighting men who have the greatest resources of science, engineering, and production behind them will be the victors."³⁷⁶
The establishment of the complex, called the "Princeton Research Center," led to a prolific age of development.³⁷⁷ A myriad of scientists and engineers were involved in research in all principal area of electronics, providing the basis for the development of numerous electronic applications.³⁷⁸ Among the first of these was the development of color television in 1946.³⁷⁹ A demonstration of this technology took place on October 30, with much publicity and fanfare.³⁸⁰
What followed was a "golden age" for the facility.³⁸¹ Further developments throughout the 20th century included solid state technology, liquid crystal displays (LCDs), silicon wafer television camera tubes, video freeze framing, automobile radar, holographic memory, videodisk technology, satellite communications, high-fidelity stereo, high-speed computer memories, and injection lasers.³⁸² The sheer amount of technology churned out by the facility was breathtaking and put West Windsor on the map in a way it had never been before!³⁸³
The establishment of the complex, called the "Princeton Research Center," led to a prolific age of development.³⁷⁷ A myriad of scientists and engineers were involved in research in all principal area of electronics, providing the basis for the development of numerous electronic applications.³⁷⁸ Among the first of these was the development of color television in 1946.³⁷⁹ A demonstration of this technology took place on October 30, with much publicity and fanfare.³⁸⁰
What followed was a "golden age" for the facility.³⁸¹ Further developments throughout the 20th century included solid state technology, liquid crystal displays (LCDs), silicon wafer television camera tubes, video freeze framing, automobile radar, holographic memory, videodisk technology, satellite communications, high-fidelity stereo, high-speed computer memories, and injection lasers.³⁸² The sheer amount of technology churned out by the facility was breathtaking and put West Windsor on the map in a way it had never been before!³⁸³
The SRI International complex, 2019
In 1951, the complex was renamed the David Sarnoff Research Center.³⁸⁴ A plaque with a portrait of Sarnoff in bas-relief was mounted in the entry hall of the main building in celebration.³⁸⁵ 16 years later, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the complex, the David Sarnoff library was opened, displaying a wide variety of books, documents, correspondence, instruments, and models.³⁸⁶ This library remained open for the public's education until 2010.³⁸⁷
Beginning in the 1960s, the area surrounding Penns Neck developed into a significant employment center for the town's populace with the establishment of facilities owned by the RCA Space Center and McGraw-Hill Publications.³⁸⁸ These anchor establishments, among other businesses, drove significant population growth in West Windsor throughout the latter half of the twentieth century.³⁸⁹
The General Electric Company (GE) acquired RCA in 1967, twenty years after which the research center was given to SRI International, a nonprofit research and consulting corporation based in California.³⁹⁰ GE also pledged to fund $250 million in consumer electronics research at the center over the following five years.³⁹¹
In 1988, the David Sarnoff Research Center was renamed the Sarnoff Corporation after its acquisition by SRI International.³⁹² In 2011, the Sarnoff Corporation merged with SRI International.³⁹³ SRI International continues to operate out of the historic complex.³⁹⁴
Over the decades, numerous buildings have been added to the ever-expanding complex.³⁹⁵ As of 2019, the facility's most prominent building is the central trident-shaped building (originally t-shaped) housing the majority of its research space.³⁹⁶ The facility continues to be an important establishment for a variety of technological developments.³⁹⁷
Beginning in the 1960s, the area surrounding Penns Neck developed into a significant employment center for the town's populace with the establishment of facilities owned by the RCA Space Center and McGraw-Hill Publications.³⁸⁸ These anchor establishments, among other businesses, drove significant population growth in West Windsor throughout the latter half of the twentieth century.³⁸⁹
The General Electric Company (GE) acquired RCA in 1967, twenty years after which the research center was given to SRI International, a nonprofit research and consulting corporation based in California.³⁹⁰ GE also pledged to fund $250 million in consumer electronics research at the center over the following five years.³⁹¹
In 1988, the David Sarnoff Research Center was renamed the Sarnoff Corporation after its acquisition by SRI International.³⁹² In 2011, the Sarnoff Corporation merged with SRI International.³⁹³ SRI International continues to operate out of the historic complex.³⁹⁴
Over the decades, numerous buildings have been added to the ever-expanding complex.³⁹⁵ As of 2019, the facility's most prominent building is the central trident-shaped building (originally t-shaped) housing the majority of its research space.³⁹⁶ The facility continues to be an important establishment for a variety of technological developments.³⁹⁷